Search

Home > Sewing Out Loud > Bias


	Podcast:		Sewing Out Loud
	Episode:		Bias
	Category:		Games & Hobbies
	Duration:		00:32:35
	Publish Date:		2017-11-03 07:00:14
	Description:		Mallory and Zede have been podcasting for almost two years and they can t believe they haven t talked about bias yet, especially since Zede loves bias. She is a bias freak. What is Bias? Bias can be anything that is not cut on the true grain of the fabric. If you are not cutting on the warp (down the length of fabric,the selvedge) or weft (selvedge to selvedge) it’s on the bias. So, when you look at a pattern it will have a grain line. When you lay the pattern piece on fabric this grain line should follow the warp. The pattern piece will be parallel to the selvedge edge. If you shift the pattern piece and cut out even slightly off grain that is technically the bias – not the true bias but bias. This is not how to correctly cut a pattern on the bias. The true bias will be at a 45 degree angle from either the warp or weft. How to Find True Bias You find the straight grain on your fabric at the top and fold this to your selvedge edge (the top piece will be laying along the selvedge). This will form a triangle and the hyptanous of the triangle is the bias. The line that is across from the 90 degree angle at the base of triangle is 45 degrees, that is your true bias. You cut your bias strips along this line. How Zede Cuts Bias She folds her fabric accordingly and she gets her 45 degree hypotaneus (the longest triangle edge). She lays her long clear ruler on the edge and uses that as her reference line to cut her bias strips. She is very careful when cutting not to stretch the fabric. The bias edge is very stretchy and easily distorts. Characteristics of Bias How does bias differ from the warp and weft? Zede says the biggest thing is that its not stable. It will make woven fabric have stretch. You ll get more stretch and contortion when you cut on the bias. Is there a bias on a knit? Yes, you just might not need it because knits by nature are stretchy. The bias on knits is generally used for design purposes, like stripes. Bias on Woven Fabrics The stretch produced by cutting woven on the bias lets the fabric curve nicely; think armholes, necklines, and hat bands. If you took a bias strip and ironed it you could iron it into an s shape if you wanted. You can do lots of cool things with the bias. A bias edge will not fray as much. It may get a fuzzy edge but it won t completely unravel. You can cut strips on the bias, you may choose to cut a pattern piece on the bias, or a pattern maker may purposely have you cut on the bias. Pattern pieces cut on the bias will drape so beautifully. It allows for better fabric movement like under a collar or a circle skirt. The collar will roll over nicely and the skirt will hang lovely. Zede says be careful here! Know the rules before you break them. She almost always cuts her sleeves on the bias. She likes the way it feels and the little bit of stretch it has. This also puts the sleeve cap on the bias. Mal brings up that when you cut out a woven pattern piece on a curved edge like a sleeve cap or neckline opening, you are encountering bias. It may not be the true bias but its a bias edge non the less. There are many different degrees of bias there – literally. This is often when a pattern will give you a recommendation to stay stitch the edge. The bias edge will not be as stable, and the fabric will not hold its shape as easily because the it is not on true grain anymore. This bias edge can make it easier to manipulate fitting that sleeve cap or make finishing the neckline a smoother process. Zeds s Golden Tip for Sewing Sleeves She prefers to start sewing at the top of the sleeve and work down into the underarm area. She stops and moves back up to the top of the sleeve cap and sews down the other side to the underarm again. She never sews the whole sleeve in at one time. So, you will encounter bias just as you normally cut things outs, you can internationally cut pattern pieces on the bias or a pattern maker may tell you to cut on the bias. If you decide to cut on the bias you will need more fabric. So keep that in mind. ********************************************************************** THIS BROADCAST IS BROUGHT TO YOU BY: The Sew Long & Sew Happy Box IMPORTANT ORDERING AND SHIPPING INFO Choose “SewHere Box Shipping” for free shipping in the US and Internationally- DO NOT add extra items to your order, you will be charged for shipping on extra items. The Sew Long and Sew Happy Box will ship between 12/1/17 and 12/15/17. Our last SewHere Box of 2017! The centerpiece of this box is our very first custom-printed fabric panel that you can use to make your own Sew Long and Sew Happy T-Shirt! The panel is 95% cotton/5% lycra. 60″ wide by 36″ long. The Sew Long and Sew Happy graphic (in Zede’s handwriting) 8″x8″ and is placed 9″ below the top of the panel on one side. This gives you plenty of room to cut out the bodice of a t-shirt or tank. The other side of the panel is covered in wavy stripes- but look more closely and you’ll see that it’s our signature sewing machine motif! More details on other fun sewing items to come! This box is slated to ship between December 1 and 15, 2017. Sew Long and Sew Happy! ********************************************************************** Handling Bias If you stretch bias while handling it that stretch or new shape is permanent. The bias doesn t have recovery like a knit. If you are making bias strips and need to iron them you don t want to iron back and forth you want to press it. Just pat the fabric down with the iron, you don t want the bias to get stretched out, it will actually get thinner as its stretched. Be careful not to overhandle it, don t iron it back and forth, stay stitch the curved edges, maybe cut bias pattern pieces closer to time of sewing, support the fabric when you move it. Mal says she is extra careful when handling pattern pieces cut on the bias because it is so easily stretched and distorted. Hemming Zede says when she makes circle skits or long dresses with a curved hem which may or may not be cut on the true bias but still on the bias she lets the garment hang overnight. The edge may stretch a bit from the weight of the fabric. Some edges could stretch more than others, which means part of the hem will be longer than others. What this means is you need to let the dress hang overnight, put the dress or skirt on your body and measure from the floor up and mark the hem. Fabric Pattern Zede and Mal both agree that you have to be careful when working with a patterned fabric, especially one that is directional. When you cut out circle skirts the directional print will not be orientated in the same way all around the skirt. You may not want that look. Be aware of fabric patterns and the look you are trying to accomplish. Zede loves using striped fabric on the bias because she finds the finished look more appealing than regular horizontal or vertical stripes. She likes to make bias binding and cut her shirts out on the bias. Bias and Knit Fabric If you are making a garment out of knit there is usually no reason to cut the fabric on the bias unless your doing it for pattern sake. Zede loves the look of striped fabric cut on the bias. She will make the bodice of a top as usual but cut the sleeves on the bias for the awesome appearance it gives. Zede says if you know these few things about bias that bias will be your friend. When have you encountered sewing with bias? Or are you like Zede and just love using it all the time? The post Bias appeared first on sewhere.com.
	Total Play:		0