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Today we’re going to talk about origin beers.
There’s increasing discussion in niche beer circles about the accuracy of
some of our beer vernacular. What constitutes farmhouse ales, for
example? Most leading farmhouse beer producers don’t operate a farm at
all. Rather, they hold close to some of the prevailing traditions of those
styles largely lost to history. And increasingly, farmhouse producers are
located in urban environments, pulling extremely far away from their
inspiration, but perhaps staying connected to methodology or year profiles
that give them a way to talk about a different approach to brewing
regardless of the disassociation.
But today we talk to someone who’s working hard to take another part of
beer making back to an extreme niche tradition, and that’s Mad Fritz
Brewing in Napa Valley. Owned and operated by Nile Zacherele, a
professional vintner at David Arthur Vineyards on Pritchard Hill, Mad Fritz
is an attempt to take the ingredients of beer back to an origin status, not
unlike winemaking where the location, the soil, and the cultivation of the
ingredients is both present—and local—to the production of the beverage.
To that end, Nile has convinced some locals farmers to grow barley for him,
which he intends to floor-malt himself. He even sources water from local
wells and reservoirs. He also barrel-ages or barrel-ferments all his beers,
many of them on the paler side, which means they pick up wood character
quickly.
I first learned of Nile’s beers when he sent a care-package some months
back and I tasted through them with some good friends and colleagues here
at the studio. We were curious—and sometimes downright perplexed—by what
was happening in the bottle. These were very unusual beers in both concept
and execution. Not to mention the details where were we found ourselves
becoming engaged—a shift in water profile, a lingering grain quality, wood
character that skewed our expectations.
So when I had the chance to visit recently on a short trip around the North
Bay, I wasted little time in asking Nile a hundred different questions.
Then we went up the hill to the vineyard to taste the grapes, the
fermenting juice, and the finished wines that have serviced as a sort of
inspiration point for brewing origin beers. And I’m happy to say I’m still
curious and perplexed. |